At the corner of Sokratous and Theatrou streets, in the heart of Athens, lies “Diporo”—a hidden gem nestled in the basement of a 150-year-old abandoned neoclassical building.
Finding it, however, is part of the adventure. There’s no sign.
Step down the stairs, and it’s like traveling back in time—to the 1950s. Nothing has changed since then. The decor, the atmosphere, even the wooden barrels filled with retsina overhead. Only the people are different. Once the favored haunt of market workers, intellectuals, and politicians, Diporo has now caught the attention of trendy tourists, thanks to glowing reviews from famous food YouTubers.
Here, you’ll find an eclectic mix—young hipsters, art curators, actors, and even well-dressed business executives who return to their offices still carrying the smoky scent of grilled food.
A Menu Straight from Greek Tradition
Today's menu? Giant beans in tomato sauce, chickpeas, fava puree, wild greens, sardines, and short-cut pasta with cuttlefish. Simple, traditional, and bursting with flavor.
With only nine tables covered in wax paper, Diporo operates on a first-come, first-served basis. If the place is packed, you might find yourself sharing a table with fishermen or vegetable vendors taking a quick break from the bustling Varvakeios Market. Or perhaps you’ll sit beside well-known Athenians who come here for one thing: authentic, unpretentious food prepared by the legendary Kyr Mitsos.
For over 50 years, Kyr Mitsos has been the soul of this underground tavern. He started as an assistant to the original owner, and now, with just one helper, he runs the entire place.
Service You Won’t Forget
The efficiency here rivals that of high-end restaurants.
Before you even sit down, you’ve already placed your order. Take a sip of your wine, and within moments, a warm plate of fava arrives at your table.
At the back of the tavern, a marble sink catches the eye, while old newspaper clippings and poems by Kostas Varnalis hang from the wooden pillars—rumor has it that the poet himself was once a regular here, drawing inspiration from the very atmosphere that still lingers today.
A Legendary Underground Tavern
Some believe that this very tavern is the one referenced in Varnalis’ famous poem The Doomed:
"In the underground tavern
amid smoke and curses
(above, the barrel organ screeched)
last night, we drank together..."
More than just a place to eat, Diporo is an experience.
Kyr Mitsos and his assistant may not give interviews, but they don’t need to—every guest leaves enchanted, as if they’ve stepped into a time capsule of old Athens.
And, of course, no one leaves hungry. That’s an unwritten rule.
A Global Secret No Longer
During a single lunchtime visit, we met an American couple who had discovered this hidden world thanks to Mark Wiens, the famous YouTuber who praised Diporo’s flavors and authenticity. A Japanese visitor was snapping so many photos he looked like a professional photojournalist. Two Israeli friends sat nearby, savoring every bite.
Diporo may be an underground tavern, but its legend is reaching far beyond the streets of Athens—one satisfied guest at a time.
