Meat in Antiquity: A Luxury for Some, a Custom for All
Eating meat in ancient Greece wasn’t a given or an everyday affair. Rather, it was a sign of social and economic status, as well as geography. In rural areas, access to meat came mainly through hunting, traps, or raising domestic animals like poultry and geese. Wealthier families kept herds of sheep, goats, or pigs, which allowed for more regular meat consumption.
In urban centers—especially Athens—meat was considered a luxury. For example, a suckling pig cost about three drachmas, roughly equivalent to three days’ wages for a public servant, according to accounts from Aristophanes’ era. As a result, eating lamb or goat was mostly reserved for special occasions and festivals. Interestingly, though, products like sausages were widely consumed across social classes.
Meat consumption wasn’t just about nutrition; it held ritual significance too. During religious ceremonies, the “divine” portion—typically fat and bones—was offered as a burnt sacrifice, while the meat was shared among participants. This act reinforced social bonds through communal participation in both the sacrifice and the meal.
At ancient symposia (drinking parties), meat occupied a special place, with a variety of dishes featuring offal and game. From stuffed intestines and tripe soups to roasted heads, trotters, and pork shanks, the culinary choices reveal both the creativity and the adventurous palate of the ancient Greeks. Yet, there were limits: according to Athenaeus, pork brains were forbidden, mainly due to philosophical ideas about purity and symbolism.
When it came to preparation, ancient Greek cooking employed various methods: spit-roasting or oven-baking, boiling with vegetables and spices. The hearth—a stone structure at the center of the kitchen—served as the main cooking area, supplemented by portable cauldrons, tripods, and grills for more flexible recipes. Cooking often took place outdoors or in rooms equipped with special openings to vent smoke.
This culinary tradition is even reflected in Homeric epics: the god Hermes is described cutting meat into small pieces, threading them onto skewers, and grilling them over charcoal—a vivid image showing that the beloved skewer or “souvlaki” has far older roots than we might think.
