If it weren’t for two breathtaking beaches with white sand and stunning turquoise waters—Vrika and Voutoumi—Antipaxos might only be known to the locals of Paxos, who often have their summer homes there.
But this little island has made a name for itself around the world. Every summer, thousands of Greek and international tourists flock to its shores for a swim in its dreamlike waters. By late afternoon, however, most leave—Antipaxos can only accommodate a handful of overnight guests.
A Pocket-Sized Paradise
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With an area of just 3 square kilometers, Antipaxos lies directly south of Paxos. Its terrain is predominantly limestone, which you’ll notice in the striking, chalk-white cliffs that are best admired on a boat tour around the island. This very limestone is responsible for the island’s signature soft, white sand that gives its beaches such an exotic allure.
The landscape is lush with low vegetation—cypress trees, junipers, mastic trees, arbutus, pines, and umbrella pines create a dense green canopy.
The Beaches: Vrika, Voutoumi, and More
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The first beach you’ll reach when arriving from Paxos is Vrika. Tucked deep into a small bay, it's framed by greenery that spills all the way to a narrow shore of soft white sand and pebbles. Its shallow waters shimmer in shades of light turquoise to deep green, creating a truly heavenly scene. Two traditional tavernas sit on either end of the beach, with a beach bar nestled in between.
Just around the corner, in the next bay, is the larger Voutoumi beach. Similar in character to Vrika, Voutoumi stands out for its lush vegetation, where tall cypress trees stretch right down to the sand. The fertile flatland behind the beach was once a marsh, which explains the dense plant life. Here too, you’ll find two tavernas—one perched high on a hill, offering a panoramic view of the bay below.
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Between Vrika and Voutoumi lies a third, lesser-known beach called Mesovrika, with smooth white pebbles. It's a favorite among nudists for its seclusion and serenity.
Local Life and Island Charm
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Locals refer to the island as Antipaxoi (sometimes Antipaxos, never Antipaxi), and its only harbor, Agrapidia, is home to fishing boats and small vessels used by residents to travel to and from Paxos.
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Although there are about 150 houses on the island, only two or three are inhabited year-round. The rest are owned by Paxos residents who use them as holiday homes.
A Passion for Hunting, Wine, and Walking
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The people of Paxos have a deep affection for hunting, and Antipaxos is their favorite hunting ground. In spring and autumn, the island takes on the feel of a Cuban jungle—locals in camouflage roam the trails, waiting for doves to fly through.
But hunting isn’t the only draw. Unlike Paxos, where olive cultivation dominates, Antipaxos is a land of vineyards. The island’s wine—dark, smooth, and slightly sweet—is a rare treat, produced in small batches and highly sought after. If you’re lucky, you might get to taste it at one of the island’s tavernas, which bottle limited quantities each year.
Trails, Hidden Coves, and Local Legends
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The island's main path stretches from Vrika in the north to the lighthouse at the southern tip. While parts of this route have been turned into dirt or concrete roads to accommodate the island’s few (and usually very old) cars, it’s still a scenic walking trail. The hike takes about an hour and a half, and it’s worth every step.
Antipaxos is blanketed in fragrant vegetation—cypress, cedar, mastic, myrtle, arbutus, pine, and the occasional solitary umbrella pine, which towers above the rest. Locals have a saying: “On Antipaxos, you walk and eat,” referring to the abundance of fruit trees dotting the countryside.
From the main path, detours lead to lesser-known, pebbled coves like Skidi, Sarakiniko, and Rodovani—perfect alternatives when the more famous beaches get crowded with day-trippers from tour boats. One particularly charming detour takes you to the Kaloiri spring on the island’s west coast.
About 200 meters past Antipaxos’ only chapel, Agios Aimilianos, perched above Agrapidia harbor, take a right down a path with 117 steps. At the bottom, you’ll find a stone structure that collects water from the mountain. Built by the British in 1833 to supply water to passing naval ships, it still functions today. Nearby, there's a small fountain with drinkable water. As a local rhyme goes:
“Kaloiri’s water has silver in its heart—
To taste it, you’ll need a noble part.”
The Lighthouse: A Hidden Architectural Gem
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The trail’s southern end leads to Antipaxos’ lighthouse, an architectural gem built in the late 19th century by the same French company that constructed the Paxos lighthouses. Originally staffed by six lighthouse keepers, it operated manually until the 1990s and is now fully automated. Towering above the island, it offers a final, majestic view over the endless Ionian Sea.
In Conclusion
Antipaxos may be small, but it packs a big punch. With its unreal beaches, vivid natural palette, fine wine, and quiet charm, it’s more than just a day-trip destination—it’s a slice of paradise that deserves to be savored. Just don’t forget to catch the last boat back.