Just a stone’s throw away from the center of Athens, nestled within the dense urban fabric of the bustling city, lies a small village. A picturesque neighborhood with brick-built one-story houses, limewashed walls, dry-stone fences, gardens, pastures, and unparalleled views. It almost seems unbelievable! This unique village, the G. Papandreou Settlement, is located at the top of the Tourkovounia hills. From here, you can take in the horizon, with stunning views of the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill, as well as the neighborhoods of the vibrant city of Athens.
Dirt paths, shack-like houses with limewashed courtyards, rusted gates, peeling walls, vegetable plots, abandoned homes, gigantic water tanks, mailboxes, chickens and rabbits appearing suddenly, bird songs, pastures, wire-fenced enclosures, and the chanting from two local churches—all of these elements combine to create a completely different reality. And all of this, just a stone's throw from the heart of the capital.
This place stands out for its ongoing struggles. It’s a place for internal migrants and poor people.
The G. Papandreou Settlement consists of around 140 homes, with a permanent population of about 800 people, and the area spans more than 100 acres. However, the complicated property rights issues have been the main cause of the multiple problems that the residents have faced. Jailings, hunger strikes, demolitions, fines, deadlines, land encroachments, and blackmail have defined the identity of this settlement.
The area began to be developed in 1944. However, the majority of the buildings were constructed in the 1960s, either by the current owners or their ancestors. Over the years, the Greek government has contested ownership of this land, leading to numerous contradictory court rulings.
The settlement was named after Greek Prime Minister George Papandreou because in 1964, under his leadership, a 300-acre plot of land near Polygonos was allocated to poor families. Around 100 houses were built during this period, and this part of the hill was named the "G. Papandreou Settlement." In fact, the politician had promised the residents that their illegal homes would soon be legalized. A year later, Papandreou’s government fell, and two years later, during the military junta, a decision was made by George Papadopoulos to expropriate the area for the construction of the Church of the Savior, in fulfillment of the National Vow—a promise made by Greek revolutionaries in 1821 to build a church as a symbol of gratitude for the liberation of Greece from Ottoman rule.
At the time, various officials visited the area, delivering eviction notices. "The reactions were intense, the residents protested, and the police set fire to more than 80 homes. Three years after the junta’s fall, some residents managed to acquire property titles, and in 1993, the area was not only supplied with water but also electrified, according to a decision from the Ministry of the Environment. Some urban planning projects were carried out, and gradually the area came under the jurisdiction of the Municipality of Athens."
Since then, the property situation remains ambiguous and unclear.
Most of the houses are made of brick, and the countless flower pots filled with plants stand out, often placed in old cans. The chanting from the Church of Agia Kyriaki adds an almost mystical atmosphere to the area.
The settlement is also home to the Monastery of Prophet Elias, a rare monastic complex located in one of the most central spots in Athens.
In this spiritual oasis, which has been in continuous operation since 1957, the abbess and four nuns, along with one novice, serve the community.
On the eve and day of the Feast of Prophet Elias, a beautiful celebration takes place, attracting many visitors to the monastery. Additionally, every Sunday, this place remains a popular destination for many Athenians looking for a peaceful getaway.
In such close proximity to the city center, there are still points of interest that have preserved their original character, forming an entirely different city within the walls of Athens. At the highest peak of the Tourkovounia hills, the G. Papandreou Settlement continues to offer a rare journey through time and memories of the past.
