Perched along the ridge of South Pelion, at 310 meters above sea level with sweeping views of the Pagasetic Gulf, lies the noble village of Lafkos—a gem of Southern Pelion.
This picturesque village is a haven of traditional beauty, featuring a grand central square, timeworn stone fountains, and cobblestone alleyways that guide visitors through historic mansions and authentic Pelion architecture.
A Stroll Through Time in the Heart of Pelion
As you wander through the flower-filled neighborhoods of Lafkos, you're greeted by the fragrant aromas drifting from courtyards and herb gardens—scents that root themselves in memory and linger long after you’ve left. The village name, according to the most widely accepted theory, comes from the Greek word “glafkos”, meaning bright or clear—much like the horizon stretching out before Lafkos.
Lafkos’ story begins in the late 15th century, when its first residents settled in the ravine of Paliovrisi, seeking protection from Turkish raiders and pirates. Over time, as political and economic conditions improved, the population grew and the village flourished. Stately homes rose from its hillsides—many of which still stand today with only minor restorations.
View of the village of Lafkos, Pelion, Greece
At the heart of the village is the central square, shaded by ancient plane trees and lined with charming little shops. And nestled among them is a true national treasure: Forlidas Café, considered the oldest coffeehouse in Greece.
A Café That Never Closed
According to the Greek Gastronomy Guide, Forlidas opened in 1785 and has remained in continuous operation ever since. With its dim interior illuminated by soft shafts of light from tiny windows, a floor of aged cement mortar, and walls washed in layers of blue lime, the café is a living monument. The ceiling groans gently under the weight of over two centuries of history.
Once serving both as a barber shop and coffeehouse, Forlidas was more than a gathering spot—it was a cultural hub. In the days when the upper floor operated as a roadside inn, it even hosted the iconic author Alexandros Papadiamantis, then disguised as a young monk, and Kostas Varnalis, during his time as a high school principal in nearby Argalasti.
Today, the café’s décor remains unchanged: old straw chairs, marble-topped tables made from local Pelion stone, and a wood-burning stove at its center.
“This place holds a lot of history,” says current owner Mr. Manolis, the smiling and ever-polite seventh-generation descendant of the Forlidas family.
“Papadiamantis, known to the locals as ‘the little monk’, used to drink his wine in that corner. After arriving from Skiathos and disembarking at Platanias, he’d spend the night in the inn above the café before walking to Milina, where a boat would take him to Volos. Until 1960, that was our only connection to the city—by sea. Many notable figures stopped by here: Varnalis, the principal in Argalasti, and Dermouzos, the director of the Volos Girls’ School.”
Tradition Lives On
In the summer, Mr. Manolis serves coffee and soft drinks under the shade of nine massive plane trees in the square. Come winter, guests huddle inside around the crackling stove, surrounded by vintage photographs that whisper stories from centuries past.
Forlidas is more than just a coffeehouse—it’s a window into Greek history, culture, and resilience. A visit here is not just about enjoying a coffee; it’s about experiencing a living tradition that has defied time and remained untouched by modernity’s rush. If you ever find yourself in Pelion, don’t miss the chance to sip a piece of history.
